Bike sat... crank no start...

[Tropicalsuns]

Embarrassed to say... bike has been sitting for almost two years parked in garage.

Had very little gas in when parked and last time I road ran like new.

Installed new battery, fresh gas and can of seafoam.

Engine cranks but will not fire.

I suspect that the jets might be glazed over... will the sea foam work it's way down and clear things out or am I pulling carbs off?

[Poorboy]

Embarrassed to say... bike has been sitting for almost two years parked in garage.
You might as well plan on pulling the carbs. Even with little gas in it, it's was still in the carbs. Look in the tank & make sure it is not rusted or gummed up. It is a lot better to store a bile with a full tank. I bought a new to me bike in May of 15 & so all my bikes have sat since. None will start. GOOD LUCK

Had very little gas in when parked and last time I road ran like new.

Installed new battery, fresh gas and can of seafoam.

Engine cranks but will not fire.

I suspect that the jets might be glazed over... will the sea foam work it's way down and clear things out or am I pulling carbs off?

---

You might as well plan on pulling the carbs. I have let mine set for 18 months & I'm having to pull mine.

[Tropicalsuns]

I did a full rebuild on carbs six months before parked with randak kit... do I have to rebuild again with a kit or do I pull them and use a cleaner???

Thanks for the response Don

[glhonda]

I did a full rebuild on carbs six months before parked with randak kit... do I have to rebuild again with a kit or do I pull them and use a cleaner???

Thanks for the response Don

Marty. I've found that these carbs are very forgiving. Remove from the bike. Pull the bowls and remove the jets. Blow them out good with carb clean and compressed air. Randakk sells the bowl gaskets separately. That should be all you need.

[Tropicalsuns]

I did a full rebuild on carbs six months before parked with randak kit... do I have to rebuild again with a kit or do I pull them and use a cleaner???

Thanks for the response Don

Marty. I've found that these carbs are very forgiving. Remove from the bike. Pull the bowls and remove the jets. Blow them out good with carb clean and compressed air. Randakk sells the bowl gaskets separately. That should be all you need.

Thanks Mike...

[Tropicalsuns]

Well..... experience certainly plays a part on how you do things and how deep you need to go with the true repair needed....

That being said I think I've gone to far.

I took the carbs off the bike yesterday and set up the upstairs outside porch to break down the carbs on a nice glass table.

I always use plastic trays to keep track of the parts taken off in sequence and areas so things go back together smoothly.

After I took off the throttle linkage with all the little washers and cotter pins a wind gust came up out of nowhere and blew the baskets of parts over the balcony.....and much into the pool.

Even in Vegas the pool has to be about forty degrees right now, I have I think recovered much of the parts ( pins nope) but I'm missing a mission critical plastic collar that connects the throttle linkage to the carbs... can those be purchased??? I can take a picture of one I found..

Indeed if all I'm trying to accomplish is to clean the floats and jets it seems to me I don't really have to do anything but flip the assembly upside down and remove the float covers and jets and clean them out...if this is correct there is no true reason for me to take the individual carbs off the assembly is there??

[glhonda]

Yes Marty. You are correct twice.
1) You need only to take the bowls off, remove the jets, needles and seats and blow out the ports. You'll need to remove the idle mixture screws as well and blow out the passages.
2) This time you've gone too far.
Post a picture of parts you need once you're done losing them and I'll see what I can do. I have a set I've cannibalized over the years. I may have what you need.

[Tropicalsuns]

Was successful in getting my carburetor to function again.. it had more issues that I saw once I started to pay attention as the throttle plate butterfly's were actually fussed in place and would not move until properly cleaned.

Once installed the bike finally started and after shaking off the rest of the cobwebs from sitting the smoke died off and began to run better and better over time and now fires up when asked to.

I then discovered that my number 1 and 3 choke pistons were also frozen in place.

I was able to kinda free one up but thought I would check in to find the proper way to get the stubborn one to move besides a sledge hammer. What is the best way to free these?

One still frozen, the other now moves but does not settle back in after turning choke off unless I manually make it do so.

Is there a proper method to free these up and also what makes them return to their proper resting place after choke is no longer needed?

I was able to put everything back together minus the throttle linkage collar lost to the wind.

[K Bergen]

Is there a proper method to free these up and also what makes them return to their proper resting place after choke is no longer needed?

As far as I can tell the only thing that closes the enricher valves is the torsion spring on each bell-crank/lever.

For the linkage bushing you should be able to whittle one up out of a tiny piece of nylon.

[Tropicalsuns]

Still cannot budge one of the choke pistons, just take a piece of wood and hammer to it or is there a better method?

[roscoepc]

Still cannot budge one of the choke pistons, just take a piece of wood and hammer to it or is there a better method?

Marty, I'd wait for Mike to come back online as he's the closest thing we got to a carb expert!!

[glhonda]

Marty, I'd wait for Mike to come back online as he's the closest thing we got to a carb expert!!

Marty is welcome to PM me any time. Bergen steps in, I step out.

[bs175dths]

Still cannot budge one of the choke pistons, just take a piece of wood and hammer to it or is there a better method?

The best advice I read about cleaning these carburetors is to use either gas or Seafoam.
The choke pistons are threaded in place and can be removed. I suspect in your case, the choke assembly is also stuck and I wouldn't recommend trying to remove them from the carburetor assembly. Removing the carburetor assembly from the bike would probably be best, allowing you to stand the assembly in such a way as to be able to eye-drop or cotton swab some gas or Seafoam on the piston and allow it to seep into the affected area. Patience is a virtue. Don't beat the carburetors.

I know this is an old thread and the problem may have been resolved, but this may help another member.

-Ride On